What Does “Unfinished Leather” Really Mean?

When we say Coupland Leather Balm is ideal for “unfinished or lightly treated leather,” what do we actually mean?

It’s a fair question, and one that deserves a thoughtful answer, especially from those who know their hides. After all, most vegetable-tanned leather is finished in some way, often with waxes or oils that enhance its beauty and durability. So what makes a leather “unfinished,” and why does it matter for leather care?

The Nature of Finish

In the leather world, “unfinished” typically refers to leather that hasn’t been sealed with synthetic coatings, like acrylics or polyurethanes, that create a glossy, impermeable surface. These plasticised finishes are common in mass-produced furniture, patent leather, and some chrome-tanned goods. They resist moisture, scratches, and, unfortunately, conditioning balms.

By contrast, vegetable-tanned leather, even when finished with natural waxes or oils, remains breathable and absorbent. These finishes are semi-permeable, allowing nourishing ingredients like beeswax and olive oil to penetrate the fibres and support the leather’s longevity.

What Our Balm Loves

Coupland Leather Balm is formulated for leathers that welcome care, not resist it. That includes:

• Vegetable-tanned leather with wax or oil finishes

• Full-grain leather with minimal surface treatment

• Saddlery leather that’s been hot-stuffed or hand-burnished

These leathers retain their natural character and respond beautifully to balm application, deepening in richness and resilience over time.

What to Avoid

Our balm isn’t suitable for:

• Patent leather (plastic-coated)

• Vinyl or faux leather

• Chrome-tanned leather with heavy synthetic sealants

• Suede or nubuck (due to nap distortion)

If the leather feels plasticky, overly glossy, or resists water absorption, it’s likely sealed, and best left to surface cleaners rather than conditioning balms.

In Summary

When we say “unfinished,” we mean leather that’s still alive to touch, breathable, natural, and receptive to care. It’s not about being untreated, but about being unsealed. And that distinction makes all the difference.